The Swag Country Inn, a Smoky Mountains Retreat
by Shelley Gaskins
Celebrate life! These words, displayed near the entrance of the Swag, could easily be the motto of this pastoral country inn nestled high in the mountains of North Carolina. There is much to celebrate here, from cool mountain temperatures and spectacular views to quiet solitude and gracious accommodations.
We felt truly welcome here. The genuine warmth and hospitality of innkeeper Deener Matthews appeared effortless and endless. She eagerly explained the history behind the hand-hewn log buildings that comprise the inn. She and her husband collected the logs from original Appalachian structures which they disassembled and hauled up the mountain. Some of the logs date back to 1795. The reassembling of these logs into the Swag created an inn of unsurpassed rustic beauty.
Buildings on Swag property consist of the main Inn, the Chestnut Lodge, an authentic pioneer house, and a hand-hewn log cabin. The fully furnished house and cabin are available for reservation and are favorite retreats for those guests who want complete privacy. Chestnut Lodge contains several guest rooms, the library, the redwood sauna, and the racquetball court. The main building houses several more guest rooms, the kitchen, and the living and dining areas. Deener even gave me a tour of her magnificent kitchen!
For meals we sat in ladderback chairs at one of two twelve feet long tables. The informal style created an atmosphere of easy conversation with those sitting nearby.
Our breakfast was elegant. It began with homemade granola, spiced oatmeal, berries, melon, and freshly squeezed orange juice. Next a ham and cheese quiche with crispy bacon was presented. Finally, a tray of fresh pastries was brought out.
We had our choice of lunch in the dining room or a take-out trail lunch. We wanted to be outside, so Deener prepared us a picnic of smoked turkey and provolone cheese on fresh croissants, with chips and carrot sticks, beverages, and chocolate mint brownies. She even packed a couple of moist towelettes!
The evening meal was gourmet and delicious. We had steamed shrimp chilled to perfection, French cassoulet (a truly tasty mixture of white beans, tender chicken, sweet sausage, and tomatoes), crisp tossed salad, and homemade sourdough bread. For dessert we had a sweet cream cheese and fruit pastry.
Wine and liquor are not available at the inn, but guests may bring their own.
The dining area opens into the living area. A massive stone fireplace provides a focal point around which guests gather to visit or sit quietly with a book from the inn's library. The evening we were there, people gathered after dinner to enjoy a slide presentation by renown Blue Ridge photographer Bill Bake. Bill was at the Swag conducting a five-day workshop for photography enthusiasts and graciously shared his slides.
Workshops and special events are held throughout the season at the Swag. Participants may celebrate Birding Week, Nature Week, and Hiking Week. Other events may include a Quilters Workshop or a Couples Weekend. Some events require a fee. Guests of the inn are not obligated to participate in any of the planned activities. Click here for more information on upcoming events at the Swag.
Our room, the Park View, enveloped us in comfort. Special touches included handmade quilts, woven rugs, soft terry cloth bathrobes in the closet (a light comes on in the closet as you open the door), a jar of homemade trail mix on the dresser, fresh coffee beans next to a grinder and coffee maker, soap dishes lined with galax leaves, a basket of assorted tea bags, and bottles of Clearly Canadian chilling in a refrigerator on our private balcony. We felt truly pampered and protected from the hustle and bustle of the world below. At night, even the forest was quiet.
Our room had a luxurious steam shower. I turned on the timer, stepped inside, and sat down on the smooth wooden bench. Steam billowed in from a jet opening near the floor. Deener recommended a warm shower afterwards if ready for bed, a cool shower for reinvigoration. The 58° pure spring water was quite exhilarating!
The balcony of the Park View Room has a wonderful view of the mountains and valley. Deener said on a clear day one can see fifty miles. The horizon changed throughout the day. Clouds rolled down the mountains as if plucked from the sky and tossed into the valley below. Before the afternoon rainshower, a gentle mist weaved its way through the twists and turns of the valley, filling every crack and crevice with a soft shroud of mystery. As the sun set in the evening, soft splashes of pink, red, and orange blended in perfection across the purple mountain horizon. We left the door to the balcony open and woke up to a gentle mountain sunrise.
Each room at the Swag is individually decorated and offers its own amenities. Some rooms have a fireplace or wood stove. Some have whirlpool tubs. Most have queensize beds. All look comfortable and pleasing.
Just a few feet beyond the Swag's entrance lies the Great Smoky Mountains National Park with its cascading waterfalls, cool streams, and lush plant life. The pristine beauty of the park adds immensely to the atmosphere of the Swag. A park trail runs along the border of Swag property. We took a nice long hike in the park, then relaxed for awhile in the inn's redwood sauna.
The Swag's 250 acres provide many opportunities to explore the natural beauty of the mountains. We enjoyed the tranquility of the meadow with its landscaped gardens and wildflower borders. We followed it downhill to a spring fed pond and up again to Gooseberry Knob with its breathtaking view. Deener put lawn chairs and hammocks in strategic spots along the way, an offering for us to sit and enjoy. Wild strawberries and blueberries grow on the property. We'd never seen so many ruby-throated hummingbirds. We also spotted pileated woodpeckers, ruffled grouse, turkey vultures, and red-tailed hawks.
From the meadow we followed a nature trail that winds its way around and through Swag property. Deener has marked interesting plant life along the way. We heard a noise in the forest; something that sounded rather like a great black bear splashing in the stream. It made our hearts pump a little faster, but alas, it was just a wonderful old waterwheel. Gathering water within itself, it slowly turned with creaks and moans until, finally full, it emptied itself with a forceful splash into the pool below. Bears do live in the park, but they are rarely seen by visitors. Bobcats and wild boar also make their homes here, but few people ever see them. We did, however, see a few deer on Swag property.
Other activities available at the Swag include croquet, badminton, and racquetball. Personally, I liked sitting in a rocking chair on the large covered porch and just drinking in the view. You can see a lot from an elevation of 5000 feet above sea level. And the joyful sound of all those birds was music to my ears.
For more information about the Swag, visit http://www.theswag.com. The beauty and peacefulness of the Swag await.
Copyright 2006 Shelley Gaskins All Rights Reserved. Contact mail@shelleygaskins.com
